Discovering the best shape for your eyebrows without sacrificing their natural appearance is what you want to accomplish when shaping your brows.
Pencil thin or overly bushy eyebrows are dated looks that can be distracting rather than enhancing.
Just as the shape of a mustache can drastically change the appearance of a man’s face, the shape of the eyebrows affects the appearance of the eyes.
In many ways, the overall appearance of the eye area is defined by the arch, length, and thickness of the eyebrow.
There are two methods for creating the perfect brow, shaping it by removing unwanted hair or filling in a sparse or blonde brow.
How to Fill in the Brow Using Products
Brow Powders or powder eye shadows in shades that closely match the color of your brow. Choose a soft-textured matte powder and apply with a soft
wedge brush or a thin liner brush.
Begin application in the center of the brow and work outward toward the brow tip then back toward the beginning of the brow. Use short, light strokes
between the brow hairs, and apply a bit more pressure (for stronger color) when defining the underside of the brow. Use a clean toothbrush (or a brow
brush, which is similar but more expensive) to soften the color and groom the brow. For unruly brows, a clear brow gel may be applied to keep hairs in
place. Alternately, you may apply a bit of hairspray to the toothbrush, and comb this through the brow for hold and control.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eyebrow pencils are a standard way to fill in brows but many can produce a greasy, hard look or mat the brow hair, so make sure you use a pencil that
has a smooth, light texture and soft, dry finish. If penciling does not look absolutely natural, don’t do it.
Follow the same application technique described under brow powders when using an eyebrow pencil. Keep in mind that most brow pencils deposit
stronger color than a powder, so take care to use a light touch. If you apply too much color, soften the effect with a Q-Tip that has been dipped in
makeup remover. Do not apply eyebrow pencil too close to the inner brow (near the nose). Adding more than a bit of color here tends to create a too-
strong or angry-looking brow.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colored eyebrow gels and brow tints are for making the most of sparse, light-colored eyebrows or for giving a thicker look to most other eyebrows.
These products look like mascara but they have a much lighter consistency and are less pigmented. At first, you might have trouble controlling the
amount of gel or tint you apply to your brow, but once you get the hang of it, brow gel or tint can make sparse brows look full and more natural.
When applying eyebrow gels and tints, follow the basic instructions for powder eyebrow colors and eye shadows listed above, but concentrate on the
brow hair and not applying any on the skin. Be patient, it requires practice before you can easily shape and shade the brows without getting it on the
skin. If the brush of your brow gel or tint is dual-sided (most are), know that the longer bristles are great for combing through the brows when hairs are
normal to long in length. The short-bristled side is for more detailed work or for use on shorter, thin, or over-tweezed brows.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A combination approach, using a pencil with powder, can give you the control and delineation of a pencil, and the softer, shaded look of a powder. You
can also use powder with a brow gel or tint; this can create a full softly shaped brow. You can try shaping the brow with the powder first and then finish
the detail work with the pencil or brow gel. This is especially helpful if you have bald spots in your eyebrow or need to slightly extend the end of your
brows so they frame your eyes better.
Essential Tips
Use an eyebrow pencil or powder that matches the color of your own eyebrows. If you have pale or blonde eyebrows use a color that is only one or two
shades deeper than your natural brow color, this prevents a fake or drawn-on look.
Brush the brow up with a toothbrush.
Whether you are using a pencil or powder, follow the basic shape of the existing brow, using the tweezing guidelines above.
Apply the color by filling in the shape of the brow between the hairs where needed.
As much as possible, work only with the hair that is there. The idea is to shade rather than draw on eyebrows.
Fill in only at the front or underneath the brow, or through the brow itself.
Do not place your brow color, whether it is pencil or powder, more than one-quarter inch away from where the natural hair growth stops. This would
accentuate the fact that there is no brow there in the first place!
Do not forget that eyebrow color should look shaded and soft, not like a straight, hard line.
When applying brow gel, brush the color through the brow in much the same fashion as you apply mascara to the eyelashes. Brush the wand through
your brows, being careful not to get the product on the skin and not to leave the brows standing straight up. It will probably take you a few applications
to get the hang of it.
Brush brows downward with a dry, mascara-like wand. To define the arch, use the pencil to draw a line along the upper edge of the brow. Comb the
brows upward and outward.
If brows have been severely over tweezed, brush the hairs in the direction of the growth, and fill in any visible patches with powder. Avoid adding to the
top or bottom of the brows.
Which Tweezer?
Thin Tip: Good for grasping small, fine hairs, and plucking ingrown hair.
Slanted Tip: Gives maximum control.
Square Tip: Best used for removing coarse hairs or several hairs at a time.
1. Tweeze immediately after showering or apply a hot washcloth to loosen hair follicles.
2.Hold a pencil vertically along the side of the nose. Eyebrow should start at outside edge if pencil.
Hint: Leaving a bit more space will widen close-set eyes.
3.Hold pencil to outside of eye. This is where the eyebrow should end.
4.Smooth brows with a little moisturizer to help hairs slide out.
5.Brush brows up to find a natural arch.
6. Draw in the desired shape beforehand with a soft eye shadow pencil.
Hint: Don't use an eyeliner pencil. It will cause you to pluck too much.
7.Tweeze under the brow first, plucking in the direction of the growth.
Hint: If your plucking becomes too painful, apply a little anbesol (yes, that pain reliever for teeth also numbs the brows)
8.Using an eyelash comb, comb brows upwards and trim any hairs that extend beyond the natural top or brow bone.
9.After tweezing, soothe the area with cool, wet tea bags.
Pencil thin or overly bushy eyebrows are dated looks that can be distracting rather than enhancing.
Just as the shape of a mustache can drastically change the appearance of a man’s face, the shape of the eyebrows affects the appearance of the eyes.
In many ways, the overall appearance of the eye area is defined by the arch, length, and thickness of the eyebrow.
There are two methods for creating the perfect brow, shaping it by removing unwanted hair or filling in a sparse or blonde brow.
How to Fill in the Brow Using Products
Brow Powders or powder eye shadows in shades that closely match the color of your brow. Choose a soft-textured matte powder and apply with a soft
wedge brush or a thin liner brush.
Begin application in the center of the brow and work outward toward the brow tip then back toward the beginning of the brow. Use short, light strokes
between the brow hairs, and apply a bit more pressure (for stronger color) when defining the underside of the brow. Use a clean toothbrush (or a brow
brush, which is similar but more expensive) to soften the color and groom the brow. For unruly brows, a clear brow gel may be applied to keep hairs in
place. Alternately, you may apply a bit of hairspray to the toothbrush, and comb this through the brow for hold and control.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Eyebrow pencils are a standard way to fill in brows but many can produce a greasy, hard look or mat the brow hair, so make sure you use a pencil that
has a smooth, light texture and soft, dry finish. If penciling does not look absolutely natural, don’t do it.
Follow the same application technique described under brow powders when using an eyebrow pencil. Keep in mind that most brow pencils deposit
stronger color than a powder, so take care to use a light touch. If you apply too much color, soften the effect with a Q-Tip that has been dipped in
makeup remover. Do not apply eyebrow pencil too close to the inner brow (near the nose). Adding more than a bit of color here tends to create a too-
strong or angry-looking brow.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Colored eyebrow gels and brow tints are for making the most of sparse, light-colored eyebrows or for giving a thicker look to most other eyebrows.
These products look like mascara but they have a much lighter consistency and are less pigmented. At first, you might have trouble controlling the
amount of gel or tint you apply to your brow, but once you get the hang of it, brow gel or tint can make sparse brows look full and more natural.
When applying eyebrow gels and tints, follow the basic instructions for powder eyebrow colors and eye shadows listed above, but concentrate on the
brow hair and not applying any on the skin. Be patient, it requires practice before you can easily shape and shade the brows without getting it on the
skin. If the brush of your brow gel or tint is dual-sided (most are), know that the longer bristles are great for combing through the brows when hairs are
normal to long in length. The short-bristled side is for more detailed work or for use on shorter, thin, or over-tweezed brows.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A combination approach, using a pencil with powder, can give you the control and delineation of a pencil, and the softer, shaded look of a powder. You
can also use powder with a brow gel or tint; this can create a full softly shaped brow. You can try shaping the brow with the powder first and then finish
the detail work with the pencil or brow gel. This is especially helpful if you have bald spots in your eyebrow or need to slightly extend the end of your
brows so they frame your eyes better.
Essential Tips
Use an eyebrow pencil or powder that matches the color of your own eyebrows. If you have pale or blonde eyebrows use a color that is only one or two
shades deeper than your natural brow color, this prevents a fake or drawn-on look.
Brush the brow up with a toothbrush.
Whether you are using a pencil or powder, follow the basic shape of the existing brow, using the tweezing guidelines above.
Apply the color by filling in the shape of the brow between the hairs where needed.
As much as possible, work only with the hair that is there. The idea is to shade rather than draw on eyebrows.
Fill in only at the front or underneath the brow, or through the brow itself.
Do not place your brow color, whether it is pencil or powder, more than one-quarter inch away from where the natural hair growth stops. This would
accentuate the fact that there is no brow there in the first place!
Do not forget that eyebrow color should look shaded and soft, not like a straight, hard line.
When applying brow gel, brush the color through the brow in much the same fashion as you apply mascara to the eyelashes. Brush the wand through
your brows, being careful not to get the product on the skin and not to leave the brows standing straight up. It will probably take you a few applications
to get the hang of it.
Brush brows downward with a dry, mascara-like wand. To define the arch, use the pencil to draw a line along the upper edge of the brow. Comb the
brows upward and outward.
If brows have been severely over tweezed, brush the hairs in the direction of the growth, and fill in any visible patches with powder. Avoid adding to the
top or bottom of the brows.
Which Tweezer?
Thin Tip: Good for grasping small, fine hairs, and plucking ingrown hair.
Slanted Tip: Gives maximum control.
Square Tip: Best used for removing coarse hairs or several hairs at a time.
1. Tweeze immediately after showering or apply a hot washcloth to loosen hair follicles.
2.Hold a pencil vertically along the side of the nose. Eyebrow should start at outside edge if pencil.
Hint: Leaving a bit more space will widen close-set eyes.
3.Hold pencil to outside of eye. This is where the eyebrow should end.
4.Smooth brows with a little moisturizer to help hairs slide out.
5.Brush brows up to find a natural arch.
6. Draw in the desired shape beforehand with a soft eye shadow pencil.
Hint: Don't use an eyeliner pencil. It will cause you to pluck too much.
7.Tweeze under the brow first, plucking in the direction of the growth.
Hint: If your plucking becomes too painful, apply a little anbesol (yes, that pain reliever for teeth also numbs the brows)
8.Using an eyelash comb, comb brows upwards and trim any hairs that extend beyond the natural top or brow bone.
9.After tweezing, soothe the area with cool, wet tea bags.
Eyebrows
Waxing
Unless you have very sensitive skin, waxing is a quick and relatively easy alternative to plucking your eyebrows.
Although it is generally best to get eyebrows waxed professionally it can be expensive - up to around $15 as a
general rule, although salons do differ. If you have a tighter budget, or if you are feeling fairly brave, here are
some simple steps for you to try at home...
Preparing the Eyebrow
Brush the eyebrow into place with a baby toothbrush or clean mascara wand, so that their natural shape is neatly defined. Next, apply an astringent such
as witch hazel to anesthetize the sensitive skin under the brow. Work out your natural brow shape by standing several feet away from a mirror, and
following these simple steps…
Working out the length of the eyebrow
Hold a ruler parallel to your nose, and level with the inner corner of the eye, to work out where the brow should begin. If your eyes are close together,
make the gap between the brows wider. If your eyes are far apart, don’t wax the start line of the brow too much so that they are closer together. Mark the
correct point with a dot.
Working out the curve of the eyebrow
You can work out where the highest point of the curve/ arch should be by holding a ruler from the edge of the nostril past the outer edge of the iris (the
colored part of the eye) and up to the eyebrow. Mark the spot with a dot.
Final planning
Now link up the dots in a gentle arch to draw on the ideal shape of the eyebrow that you want to achieve. This will give you a guideline to go by when
applying the wax. You should aim for a smooth arched brow that tapers slightly at the outer ends.
Applying the Wax
Buy a professional waxing kit - basically a jar or tub of wax which can be warmed up in boiling water and applied with a small applicator or spatula, and
(usually muslin) removal strips. Each product varies slightly, so be sure to read the manufacturers directions carefully.
Warm up the wax to optimum temperature and use the small spatula to apply a thin layer of wax to the growth. Make sure that you only use a small
amount of wax on the spatula to avoid the wax dripping when it is applied. Apply wax with the hair growth under the eyebrow, (i.e. in the same direction
that the hair grows in). You don’t need to use much, and you should not let the wax dry.
Removing the Hair
This is the painful bit! Ouch!!
Never wax above the eyebrow, only ever shape from below. Waxing from under the brow will widen your eyes and help to get the line even. This will make
you look younger and much more glamorous if done correctly! As soon as it is applied remove the wax against the hair growth, (i.e. in the opposite
direction that the hair grows in). This is done by gently smoothing a piece of cotton muslin over the waxed area, pulling the skin taut with one hand, and
pulling the muslin off with the other.
It is a good idea to take a little hair off at a time, especially if you have fairly this growth. You will be surprised how much difference a little hair removal will
make to your appearance.
The Aftermath
Any straggly hairs left over after waxing can be easily plucked out using a set of good tweezers. Apply a soothing balm like tea tree oil onto the area
afterwards. You should avoid direct sunlight, acid based facial treatments, and liquid makeup for several hours.
To give the gorgeous new eyebrow shape emphasis, use an eyebrow pencil or tinted brow shadow to subtly fill in any gaps, and even out the natural
color tone. Don’t worry if you make mistakes, even if you have bald patches or empty spaces. Practice makes perfect, and anyway, the hair will have
grown back before you know it!!
Although it is generally best to get eyebrows waxed professionally it can be expensive - up to around $15 as a
general rule, although salons do differ. If you have a tighter budget, or if you are feeling fairly brave, here are
some simple steps for you to try at home...
Preparing the Eyebrow
Brush the eyebrow into place with a baby toothbrush or clean mascara wand, so that their natural shape is neatly defined. Next, apply an astringent such
as witch hazel to anesthetize the sensitive skin under the brow. Work out your natural brow shape by standing several feet away from a mirror, and
following these simple steps…
Working out the length of the eyebrow
Hold a ruler parallel to your nose, and level with the inner corner of the eye, to work out where the brow should begin. If your eyes are close together,
make the gap between the brows wider. If your eyes are far apart, don’t wax the start line of the brow too much so that they are closer together. Mark the
correct point with a dot.
Working out the curve of the eyebrow
You can work out where the highest point of the curve/ arch should be by holding a ruler from the edge of the nostril past the outer edge of the iris (the
colored part of the eye) and up to the eyebrow. Mark the spot with a dot.
Final planning
Now link up the dots in a gentle arch to draw on the ideal shape of the eyebrow that you want to achieve. This will give you a guideline to go by when
applying the wax. You should aim for a smooth arched brow that tapers slightly at the outer ends.
Applying the Wax
Buy a professional waxing kit - basically a jar or tub of wax which can be warmed up in boiling water and applied with a small applicator or spatula, and
(usually muslin) removal strips. Each product varies slightly, so be sure to read the manufacturers directions carefully.
Warm up the wax to optimum temperature and use the small spatula to apply a thin layer of wax to the growth. Make sure that you only use a small
amount of wax on the spatula to avoid the wax dripping when it is applied. Apply wax with the hair growth under the eyebrow, (i.e. in the same direction
that the hair grows in). You don’t need to use much, and you should not let the wax dry.
Removing the Hair
This is the painful bit! Ouch!!
Never wax above the eyebrow, only ever shape from below. Waxing from under the brow will widen your eyes and help to get the line even. This will make
you look younger and much more glamorous if done correctly! As soon as it is applied remove the wax against the hair growth, (i.e. in the opposite
direction that the hair grows in). This is done by gently smoothing a piece of cotton muslin over the waxed area, pulling the skin taut with one hand, and
pulling the muslin off with the other.
It is a good idea to take a little hair off at a time, especially if you have fairly this growth. You will be surprised how much difference a little hair removal will
make to your appearance.
The Aftermath
Any straggly hairs left over after waxing can be easily plucked out using a set of good tweezers. Apply a soothing balm like tea tree oil onto the area
afterwards. You should avoid direct sunlight, acid based facial treatments, and liquid makeup for several hours.
To give the gorgeous new eyebrow shape emphasis, use an eyebrow pencil or tinted brow shadow to subtly fill in any gaps, and even out the natural
color tone. Don’t worry if you make mistakes, even if you have bald patches or empty spaces. Practice makes perfect, and anyway, the hair will have
grown back before you know it!!
Shaping Eyebrows
Perfectly Shaped Eyebrows
The shape of the eyebrow is correct when the beginning of the brow is aligned with the center
of the nostril and the arch falls over the back third of the eye.
L-Shaped Brow
Problem: The arch is over the front third of the eye.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area.
U-Shaped Brow
Problem: The eyebrow has no arch.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area.
Over-Extended Brow
Problem: The back third of the brow is lower than the front third of the brow.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area and tweeze the end of the brow to align it with the front of the brow.
Over-Extended Brow
Problem: The front third of the brow is lower than the back third of the brow.
Solution: Tweeze the front of the brow to align it with the back of the brow.
The shape of the eyebrow is correct when the beginning of the brow is aligned with the center
of the nostril and the arch falls over the back third of the eye.
L-Shaped Brow
Problem: The arch is over the front third of the eye.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area.
U-Shaped Brow
Problem: The eyebrow has no arch.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area.
Over-Extended Brow
Problem: The back third of the brow is lower than the front third of the brow.
Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area and tweeze the end of the brow to align it with the front of the brow.
Over-Extended Brow
Problem: The front third of the brow is lower than the back third of the brow.
Solution: Tweeze the front of the brow to align it with the back of the brow.
Eyebrow Secrets
1. Get your eyebrows professional done, even if this is only once a year. This will give you an idea what they should look like, and with regular
maintenance they will remain perfectly shaped.
2. Once you have the brows you love, tend to them on a daily bases; it's a lot easier to tweeze one or two stray hairs every day then a bunch at the end
of the week.
3. No two eyebrows are ever identical; so don't even a attempt to get them the same you will end up plucking to nothing. They say eyebrows are sisters
not twins.
4. When shaping your own eyebrows always pluck after a hot shower, in natural daylight and never a week before and during your period
5. When tweezing, always sit in front of a large mirror with a magnified mirror in your hand. This gives you an overall view and the hand mirror helps with
the detail.
6. Always tweeze both eyebrows together taking a few hairs of each at a time; it is a lot easier as trying to mimic one brow shape after the other is very
difficult.
7. When shaping your own eyebrows there are a few rules to follow; eyebrows should start before the eye (nose side) and not after. Try to keep the
shape even - there is nothing worse than a tadpole sitting on top of your eyes.
8.Good quality tools are essential to achieve a professional finish.
9. When applying make up to your brows less is always more, you should never be able to see where the make up starts and where the hairs stop.
When holding the brow pencil always holds further down - like you would when sketching, and build up the colour.
10. If you decide to have your brows professionally shaped and don't know where to go always ask someone who's eyebrow you like and check the
therapist own eyebrows as this is always a good indication.
1. Get your eyebrows professional done, even if this is only once a year. This will give you an idea what they should look like, and with regular
maintenance they will remain perfectly shaped.
2. Once you have the brows you love, tend to them on a daily bases; it's a lot easier to tweeze one or two stray hairs every day then a bunch at the end
of the week.
3. No two eyebrows are ever identical; so don't even a attempt to get them the same you will end up plucking to nothing. They say eyebrows are sisters
not twins.
4. When shaping your own eyebrows always pluck after a hot shower, in natural daylight and never a week before and during your period
5. When tweezing, always sit in front of a large mirror with a magnified mirror in your hand. This gives you an overall view and the hand mirror helps with
the detail.
6. Always tweeze both eyebrows together taking a few hairs of each at a time; it is a lot easier as trying to mimic one brow shape after the other is very
difficult.
7. When shaping your own eyebrows there are a few rules to follow; eyebrows should start before the eye (nose side) and not after. Try to keep the
shape even - there is nothing worse than a tadpole sitting on top of your eyes.
8.Good quality tools are essential to achieve a professional finish.
9. When applying make up to your brows less is always more, you should never be able to see where the make up starts and where the hairs stop.
When holding the brow pencil always holds further down - like you would when sketching, and build up the colour.
10. If you decide to have your brows professionally shaped and don't know where to go always ask someone who's eyebrow you like and check the
therapist own eyebrows as this is always a good indication.
Tweezing
Tweezing the Brow
Which hairs you tweeze and which ones you don’t is the difference between attractively shaped brows and misshapen ones.
Try using an eyebrow pencil to draw on different shapes over your brow area to see which shape looks the best.
Use a magnifying mirror so you can see each hair.
The beginning of the brow should align with the center of the nostril.
The arch of the brow should fall at the back third of the eye.
The eyebrow should follow the length of the eye but it should not extend into the temple area. The basic rule is that the front part of the brow should
never drop below the back part of the brow. Allowing this to happen, either with the way you tweeze your eyebrows or the way you draw them on, makes
you look like you’re frowning and overemphasizes the downward movement of the back part of the eye.
Avoid over-tweezing above the brow. A few stray hairs are fine to remove, but too much and it can create an unnatural look unless of course that is what
you are looking for.
Do not overstate the shape of the brow; minimal brow alteration is best.
Do not pluck brows into a thin line thinking it will make your eyes look larger. It can look dated or give the face a surprised look and this shape is not easy
to correct once the damage is done.
The Best Tools for Tweezing
To shape the brow, tweezing is probably the best option for accuracy and to prevent mistakes.
The best tweezers are about personal preference.
Waxing is an option but it’s hard to control the wax. You may inadvertently remove the wrong hairs.
Never shave. This leaves a 5 o’clock shadow on the face and that is not a great look.
Tweezing and Trimming to Shape a Perfect Brow
1. Before you start tweezing, use a lip or brow pencil to heavily draw on the shape you want; you can adjust it with makeup remover as you decide on the
shape you want to create.
2. Once the shape is drawn on, tweeze any hairs that fall outside the line of the brow.
3. Next, brush the brows straight up with an old toothbrush.
4. Any hairs that are too long and floppy should be trimmed with small scissors. Tweezing long brow hairs rather than trimming them can result in gaps in
the eyebrow or create a patchy appearance.
Which hairs you tweeze and which ones you don’t is the difference between attractively shaped brows and misshapen ones.
Try using an eyebrow pencil to draw on different shapes over your brow area to see which shape looks the best.
Use a magnifying mirror so you can see each hair.
The beginning of the brow should align with the center of the nostril.
The arch of the brow should fall at the back third of the eye.
The eyebrow should follow the length of the eye but it should not extend into the temple area. The basic rule is that the front part of the brow should
never drop below the back part of the brow. Allowing this to happen, either with the way you tweeze your eyebrows or the way you draw them on, makes
you look like you’re frowning and overemphasizes the downward movement of the back part of the eye.
Avoid over-tweezing above the brow. A few stray hairs are fine to remove, but too much and it can create an unnatural look unless of course that is what
you are looking for.
Do not overstate the shape of the brow; minimal brow alteration is best.
Do not pluck brows into a thin line thinking it will make your eyes look larger. It can look dated or give the face a surprised look and this shape is not easy
to correct once the damage is done.
The Best Tools for Tweezing
To shape the brow, tweezing is probably the best option for accuracy and to prevent mistakes.
The best tweezers are about personal preference.
Waxing is an option but it’s hard to control the wax. You may inadvertently remove the wrong hairs.
Never shave. This leaves a 5 o’clock shadow on the face and that is not a great look.
Tweezing and Trimming to Shape a Perfect Brow
1. Before you start tweezing, use a lip or brow pencil to heavily draw on the shape you want; you can adjust it with makeup remover as you decide on the
shape you want to create.
2. Once the shape is drawn on, tweeze any hairs that fall outside the line of the brow.
3. Next, brush the brows straight up with an old toothbrush.
4. Any hairs that are too long and floppy should be trimmed with small scissors. Tweezing long brow hairs rather than trimming them can result in gaps in
the eyebrow or create a patchy appearance.
